Rabbits

Why Neuter?

• Prevents unwanted pregnancies
• Vital for bonding, rabbits should be kept in pairs as they are social animals. It is important that any rabbits in a bonded pair/ group are neutered.
• A neutered male and an entire female can cause the female to have repeated false pregnancies, and the male will still try to mate her which may cause fighting.
• Two entire males can lead to fighting
• All entire female rabbits are at risk of uterine cancer and mammary tumours
• Being neutered can make litter training easier 
• It will stop entire males' rabbits from spraying on furniture 
• It can make either male or female rabbits less aggressive 

Male castration information: 

• Can be castrated at any age if their testicles have descended, this is usually around 10-12 weeks old.  
• If the male is castrated within a few days of his testicles dropping, then he will not be fertile yet and can mix with females post castration. If the male is any older then they need to be kept separate from any entire females for up to 6 weeks as any sperm not in the testicles can survive for this length of time! 
• The castration surgery is a less invasive surgery than a spay and requires an incision over each testicle 

Female Spaying information: 

• Can be spayed from the age of 16 weeks, preferably before 6 months as they can become pregnant at this age. The older they get the higher the risk of them developing uterine cancer is, which can make spaying them more complex.  
• Females are sterile as soon as they have been spayed 
• The spay surgery is a more invasive surgery and requires the vet entering her abdomen. For this reason, a singular larger incision is needed over their stomach. A spay is also a longer procedure than a castrate.  

On the day expectations:  

• As long as your rabbit has been checked over by one of our vets, one of the nurses will do the admit for your rabbit.  

• They will go through the consent form with you and answer any questions you have  
• Your rabbit/s will then have pre-operative checks performed be for surgery goes ahead 
• They will have an Intravenous Catheter (I/V) placed in one of their ears to allow us to have I/V access during the surgery. This requires us to clip the fur on their ears, depending on their vein quality they may have both ears clipped. 
• Your rabbit will need to be surgically clipped to ensure that the procedure is a sterile (this prevents post-operative infections). Rabbits having a castration will have a smaller clip compared to females being spayed.  

After surgery: 

• You will receive a phone call from the vet or vet nurse once your rabbit is out of surgery and in the recovery stage. 
• We might keep rabbits in post-surgery; this is because rabbits are at  risk of Gut stasis after surgery. Gut stasis is where the rabbits stop eating and this slows the gut movement down and can cause them to become unwell very quickly. We will ensure you rabbit is eating before discharging them home. If they need to stay overnight your rabbit will have supportive treatment, and we will monitor their pain post-surgery, ensuring they are sent home on the best pain relief for them.  

Going home instructions: 

• Keep your rabbit on soft absorbent substrate such as towels, fleece blankets or re-useable puppy pads. This is to prevent substrate from sticking in the sutures 
• We will see them back for a post-op check (this is included in the surgery price) 5 days post to ensure that they are healing okay 

Thanks to improved veterinary care and better-informed owners, rabbits are now living longer. As they age, their needs change, and adjustments to their care are necessary to keep them comfortable and healthy.

When is a rabbit considered senior?

A rabbit’s “senior” status depends on breed and size, as lifespan varies:

• Small breeds (e.g., Netherland Dwarf):
  Lifespan 12–13 years | Senior from around 8 years
• Medium breeds (up to 3.5–4kg):
  Lifespan 9–10 years | Senior from around 6 years
• Large and giant breeds (e.g., Continental Giant):
  Lifespan 4–7 years | Senior from around 4 years

These are guidelines and rabbits should be assessed individually, as some show signs of ageing earlier than others.

Senior rabbit clinics

During a senior rabbit clinic, you rabbit will have a full health check including weight. We will discuss the following topics:

Feeding senior rabbit

Senior rabbits still require unlimited fresh hay, clean water, and daily leafy greens.

Adult rabbits generally need no more than 15g (about 1 tablespoon) of pellets per kg of body weight per day. Seniors may need slightly more or less depending on their weight and activity level. If one rabbit in a pair needs extra calories, feed them separately for a short period while ensuring they can still see and smell each other.

Dental disease

Reduced appetite, weight loss, drooling, smaller droppings, or facial swellings may indicate dental problems. Veterinary examination and dental x-rays are often needed.

Arthritis and spondylosis

Mobility issues are common but often mistaken for normal ageing. X-rays can confirm diagnosis. Long-term pain relief (often Meloxicam) is commonly prescribed and can greatly improve comfort. Blood tests are recommended before and during treatment.

Arthritic or overweight rabbits may struggle to keep themselves clean and may need assistance.

Overgrown claws

Less active rabbits may need more frequent nail trimming.

Pressure sores (Pododermatitis)

Soft, absorbent bedding such as Vetbed helps prevent sores, especially in rabbits with mobility issues or thin foot fur.

Housing adjustments

This may be required for older rabbits. Indoor Rabbits may need non-slip flooring and low-entry litter trays for easier access. Outdoor Rabbits may need Single-level housing as ramps in multi-level hutches may become difficult to manage.